After a true groundhop experience at
Fabril in the early afternoon, and a nice early dinner with RT, I took the
metro (green line) to Campo Grande and follow the green-white masses to the
Estádio José Alvalade, home to Sporting Clube de Portugal, one of the “Big
Three” in Portuguese football.
Estádio José Alvalade was built in 2003
for the UEFA Cup 2004 and still regularly hosts home games of the Portuguese
national team. It’s an ultra-modern stadium, part of a broader commercial zone
that includes a mall, and holds 50.000 people. It is surrounded by small stands
selling merchandise as well as food and has some fan graffiti on the outside.
Tonight’s game is between Sporting
Lisbon and Vitória de Guimarães, to of the top teams in the Primeira Liga (First Division), the
highest level of professional Portuguese football. At that time both teams are
in the top-5 of the league.
I try to buy a ticket but first get to
the wrong ticket office. After asking someone else – remarkable how many people
in Lisbon speak English reasonably well – I line up and decide to live a
little, getting a more expensive ticket: €35. It puts my reasonably at
the center of the pitch in the second row.
I
enter the stadium just before kick-off, catching the last part of the
commercial pre-game show and the much more impressive singing of the club song
(to the tune of Frank Sinatra’s “My Way”).
The stadium is almost totally full – I later hear
the official attendance was 41.822 – and almost everyone has a green-white
jersey or scarf. The audience is predominantly male, but there are quite a lot
of women (rarely without a man though), and seem more middle class than working
class – which might be, in part, because I am in the more expensive seats. The
ultras have impressive banners throughout the stadium.
There is a small group of away supporters, I guess
a few hundred, tucked away in the top corner of the stadium. They have made an
almost 370 km hike south. They also have several banners, though they are hard
to see.
The game starts pretty well for the home side,
which creates a couple of soft changes, but becomes a bit sloppy. That leads to
a couple of great Vitória counter attacks, which are hard to see, however,
because it takes quite a while before the smoke of the fans’ fireworks at the
start of the game cleared off.
The players are technically good, tactically ok,
but the final pass is lacking. This leads to pretty good combinations between
the two goal areas but very few good chances. Sporting has most of the ball,
and pressure, while Vitória is happy to counter attack.
In the 35th minute Sporting has a good
cross from the left, the Dutch striker Dost heads it back, and Ruiz finishes
from 7 meters: 1-0 for the home team. This remains the score in the first half,
which ends with a good Sporting attack, but the low shot in the corner is saved
at the last minute.
The second half starts poorly, with many small
fouls and poor passing, which cause the game to never really take off.
Sporting, which was the better side in the first half, seems not very
motivated. In the 67th minute the have a good, fast attack over
left, the ball is pulled back, but the low shot goes just wide. That will be
almost everything they show that half.
Vitória gets more and more of the game, even if
they continue to play counter-attacking football. In the 73rd minute
they have their first good attack, but the shot goes just over. In the 76th
they have a similar attack, now over right, ball is pulled back, and a cool
finish draws the game: 1-1. Fully deserved.
After that Vitória is much closer to a win than
Sporting and the home fans get increasingly frustrated. I am secretly hoping
for a stunt, but Guimarães is too cautious to give Sporting the final stab and
thus the final score is 1-1, which is almost flattering for the hosts.
All in all it was a good experience. While
ultra-modern stadium like the Estádio José
Alvalade are not really my thing, the atmosphere was good, and the fans were
real. Moreover, Portuguese football is pretty affordable and quite decent, so
you get value for your money. But don’t forget about the little teams!