TuS Makkabi Berlin – SV Sparta Lichtenberg 1911 (03-06-2023)

We arrive at the Mommsenstadion, home to Tennis Borussia Berlin, about 15 minutes before kick-off. To our great surprise, it is packed. There is a line of hundreds of people waiting to get in and we can’t find a ticket office that sells tickets anywhere. Fortunately, my friend is well connected within the Berlin soccer world and gets us in.

Today they play the regional amateur cup finals in all German states and we go to the cup final in the state of Berlin, which is between TuS Makkabi Berlin, a traditionally Jewish team that plays in the NOFV Oberliga Nord (Fifth Division), and SV Sparta Lichtenberg, who just won the Berlin Liga (Sixth Division). Makkabi is from the former West, Lichtenberg from the former East.

The game is already on its way when we enter, even though hundreds of people are still outside, waiting to get in. Inside, there are officially some 4,600 people, roughly one third of each team and one third others — including many fans of Eintracht Frankfurt, who are in town for the DFB Cup Final tonight.

The crowd is largely local, Makkabi a bit more middle class, Lichtenberg a bit more working class, but overall not too clear class profile. The fans of the two teams are pretty white, but the other fans are pretty mixed, just like Berlin.

In the 12th minute, Lichtenberg gets a penalty after a foul on the striker, which is perfectly converted: 0-1. In the 29th minute, Makkabi has a great attack, which is saved by the goalie and the rebound header goes wide. About ten minutes later a good Makkabi cross is headed from inside the box but goes just wide. Half time score: 0-1.

The second half was much poorer. In the 55th minute, despite a rough collision between two players, who remained injured on the pitch while the game continued, a great shot from the rebound goes in: 1-1

After the equalizer, Makkabi is better but creates very few chances. Poor first control leads to compensations that make the game look more physical than it is. In the 90th minute Makkabi has the biggest chance, after a bit lucky attack, but the player shoots the ball wild over the goal. Score after regular time: 1-1.

In the first period of extra time nothing happens. Lichtenberg has the ball but creates very little. The second period starts with if a Makkabi chance that is met by a great save by the Lichtenberg goalie. Some five minutes later, Makkabi again goes alone at the goalie, who pushes him wide, after which he shoots in the side net. Several other Makkabi chances also lead to no goal until in the 120th minute, in which they get a free kick just outside of the box and the Makkabi players scores it beautifully through the crossbar: 2-1. Three minutes into extra extra time Makkibi scores a third, after a well-played out attack in the box. After the goal the (good) referee blows the final whistle and the Makkabi players and fans go crazy.

This game proves, yet again, that Germany is the best country to watch football. Even at lower levels, there is atmosphere, community, and all affordable and friendly. This is my second Berlin Cup Final and both were very pleasant games at the end of the regular season. Definitely worth a visit!

SV Waldhof Mannheim 07 — MSV Duisburg (27-05-2023)

On Saturday morning, we go to a game in the 3. Liga (Third Division), which conveniently plays at 13.30, so you can either watch the 1. Bundesliga at 15.30 afterwards or, as we do, drive to an evening game in another country. On the agenda, SV Waldhof Mannheim 07, a team that I have wanted to see for decades. Years ago, I sponatenously made a detour to watch them play, still in the Regionalliga (fourth division), but it was totally sold-out, as they play for promotion.

We arrive early to the Carl-Benz-Stadion but there are already hundreds of people milling around in the nice sun. This time it is far from sold out. We buy a ticket (EUR 32) at the ticket office and enter the stadium. Everything looks old, concrete, and worn-down.

Oddly enough, the Carl-Benz-Stadion has been built only in 1994, less than 30 years ago – from the sight, we thought it was at least from the 1950s. It is heavy concrete all around and has a lot of seemingly make-shift, mostly glass, extensions.

The stadium has a capacity of 27,000 but today there are only, officially, 9,414, of which at least 1,000 from MSV Duisburg, 286 km north. In this last game of the season, neither Mannheim nor Duisburg plays for anything, being 7th and 12th in the league, respectively.

I first hit the food stand. The choice is relatively limited as there is only one type of stand that sells food around the stadium. The offer is sausages and fries, basically. I get a currywurst with fries (EUR 6.50), which is remarkably big and cheap, although the quality is not too high (particularly the sausage is burnt).

Although it is not busy, there is a real football atmosphere. Mannheim is a workers’ town and Waldhof prides itself as the home of “working class football” (in English). Fans wear a staggering variety of club t-shirt and jerseys, including from fan clubs. Last year, I visited the fan shop downtown, which rivals that of first division teams.

Before the game starts, the legendary SV Waldhof Mannheim 07 team of 40 years ago is honored – the so-called “Waldhof Buwe”. This team achieved promotion to the 1. Bundesliga, a feat never repeated since. I still remember their legendary coach and cult figure Klaus “Schlappi” Schlappner, pacing around on the sideline wearing a typical hat.

Although the stadium is quite empty, it is great weather and the fan, both home and away, are singing throughout the game. In the 6th minute, a great pass from the back brings a Waldhof striker alone in front of the goalie, after a long run, and he finishes cool: 0-1. A perfect counter.

In the 13th minute, a Duisburg free kick is headed on top of the crossbar. Five minutes later, an excellently executed attack with a few short passes in the box is finished from close to the goal: 0-2. This is also the half time score. At half time the club and fans celebrate a Fanbetreuer (kind of a social worker for fans), who is retiring after decades of working work with fans at the fan project. It is a truly touching tribute by the ultras, who also loudly whistle the president of the club, who is clearly not beloved.

The second half is a bit slow. The game is clearly played and neither team wants to go all out. The atmosphere remains good but rather cozy than boisterous. In the 71st minute a Duisburg defender plays the ball back to his goalie, but the latter is walking back and can’t see the ball, so a Waldhof striker (who was just in the game) gets the ball and finishes easy in the far corner: 3-0.

As we have an evening game in France, which is a three hour drive and we barely have three hours, we leave the game in the 75th minute. Later, we hear that the final score is 3-1, so this picture is of the pre-final score.

SV Waldhof Mannheim 07 is a dream for every groundhopper is into real football! Here, modern football with sky boxes and Asian tourists is still far away. It truly is Working Class Football! We probably saw them at the least interesting time, i.e. last game of a disappointing season, and it was still a great experience. Go see them!

FC Arminia 03 Ludwigshafen – SV Waldhof Mannheim o7 (02-07-2022)

 

The last Saturday I am joined by my friend MT for my last groundhop of this busy European summer trip. We are going to see a friendly between Oberliga Rheinland-Pfalz/Saar (fifth tier) FC Arminia 03 Ludwigshafen and its big neighbor from the 3. Liga (third tier) SV Waldhof Mannheim. It is a gorgeous afternoon, sunny but not too hot, perfect for a friendly derby.

 

The game is played in the Südweststadion, which the home ground of FSV Oggersheim (or FSV 1913 Ludwigshafen-Oggersheim), not FC Arminia 03 Ludwigshafen, although it used to play there and still occassionamlly uses the ground. It has an interesting history, as it was built on the site of the original Adolf Hitler Stadion, built in 1937 and destroyed by allied bombers during the war. In 1950 the new Südweststadion was inaugurated, with a capacity of 41,383 people (and a record attendance of 82,000!).

 

In the 1980s SV Waldhof Mannheim played its Bundesliga games here but then the stadium fell into disrepair. In 2007 it was renovated and limited to a capacity of 6,100. Today, only one main stand is open, which is very busy, and the vast majority are Waldhof Mannheim supporters. The official tally was an impressive 1,128 people, undoubtedly helped by the weather and low ticket price (€10).

 

We cannot really make out who is who, and for a while we think the better team is Arminia. We are wrong, it’s Waldhof, which in the 10th minute has a beautiful counter but eye in eye with the goalkeeper the striker shoots just wide. Five minutes later, another Waldhof striker goes alone at the goalie, who saves, but in the rebound another player is fouled. The penalty is calmly scored: 1-0.

 

A good fifteen minutes later, after a pinball moment, a Waldhof striker goes alone at the goalie and finishes in the far corner: 0-2. This is also the half-time score. For all the enthusiasm before the game, the fans are a bit dull. There is no real singing and the goals are barely celebrated. People mainly talk and drink beer.

 

In the second half Waldhof remains superior and in the 49th minute a cross is poorly defended, falls in front of a player, who easily scores from 7 meters: 0-3. Roughly 5 minutes later a visitor finishes cool and easy, tipping the ball over the poor goalkeeper: 0-4

 

In the 72nd minute, out of nowhere, Arminia has a counter that is finished beautifully in the far corner: 1-4. After that, the play is disrupted by the many player exchanges. Two minutes before the end, Waldhof counters, the goalie commits too late, and the striker scores from 30 meter into the empty goal: 1-5. That is also the final score.

 

Overall, a very entertaining game in a nice stadium — if you enjoy past glory like me — but much of the atmosphere was made by the away supporters. Hence, do go see Arminia Ludwigshafen but don’t forget SV Waldhof Mannheim either. They are high on my list for the future!

FC Lausanne-Sport – Dynamo Kyiv (29-06-2022)

 

Dynamo Kyiv is touring Europe to play “matches for peace” and raise awareness and money for the suffering of the Ukrainian people as a consequence of the Russian invasion – just like the Ukrainian national (youth) team has done too. Several of the games are in Switzerland and I pick the one in Lausanne, which fits my schedule the best.

 

This game has been schedule only two weeks in advance, in the early stages of Lausanne’s pre-season schedule. It is one of the few friendlies to be played in the quite new Stade La Tuliere, built in 2017, which is all-seater and covered but quite small (12,544 people). I park at the parking lot next to the stadium and walk over to the ticket office.

 

You get to choose what you pay (CHF 10, 20, 50, 100) and then they assign you a seat. I pay CHF 20 (or $20.50) and join the 4,050 others (official number), at least half Ukrainians, many of them children. Outside is a small Ukrainian stand, where you can get info on the war as well as Ukrainian flags and face paint.

 

FC Lausanne-Sport is a club that hovers between the two top tiers of Swiss professional football. Last season it relegated from the Swiss Super League (first tier), so next season it will play in the Swiss Challenger League (second tier). Although its stadium is very new, and very similar to the many other smaller arenas built in the last decades, it is not too sterile and you sit close to the (artificial) pitch. I can imagine the place to be quite decent when it is close to full.

 

It seems that Dynamo starts with its youth team. It is not very good. In the 5^th minute, a Lausanne midfielder shoots from the top of the box and it flies beautifully in the top corner: 1-0. Some ten minutes later Dynamo has its first attack, over left, but the shot goes across the goal and just wide. Five minutes later a Dynamo free kick is deflected but well saved by the Lausanne goalie.

 

The game moves back and forth well, at times at high pace, but there are few chances. It is quite physical, however, particularly for a friendly. In the 38^th minute, mistakes in the Lausanne defense lead to a Dynamo free kick at the top of the box. It goes low past the wall but is saved by the goalie. In the 44^th minute, a bit out of nowhere, the hosts have a break and the same player shoots effortlessly from 10 meter high in the goal: 2-0. That is also the half time score.

 

In the first ten minutes of the second half the visitors get various half chances but they miss a good final pass. Then Dynamo exchanges almost all players and the first team comes on. Within minutes, they have a great shot from just outside of the box but it is met with an equally great safe.

 

The game has now gotten pretty bad and there are too many fouls. Roughly halfway the second half Lausanne also makes many changes and the rhythm is broken on both sides. Finals score is 2-0.

 

Obviously, this was a unique game, where at least half of the audience was supporting the away team, but was not really too concerned with football. That said, although the Stade La Tuliere is a fairly standard modern stadium, it does not lack for atmosphere, assuming it is fairly busy with enthusiastic supporters.

TSV Schwaben Augsburg -- FC Augsburg (28-06-2022)

As part of my COVID-19 self-isolation I drive from Berlin to Augsburg, in the Southwest of Bavaria, to see the friendly “derby” in that city between Bayernliga Süd (sixth tier) club TSV Schwaben Augsburg and Bundesliga (first tier) FC Augsburg. On the way I hear that my new COVID-19 test is negative, so I no longer have to worry about infecting people.

 

As I drive up about 30 minutes before kick-off (at 19.00), I’m shocked by the number of people who are walking towards the stadium. All have tickets and I don’t see open tickets offices. I start to panic slightly. The game is played in the Rosenaustadion, which used to be the home of FC Augsburg, before they moved to the Augsburg Arena in 2009. Currently the women’s and the men’s second team of FC Augsburg play their home games in this fairly old stadium, which has one main stand with 5,900 covered seats.

 

After having found a rare free parking spot, I walk to the stadium and find that they do still sell tickets (€10), but then I have to join a line of easily 400 people that is not moving — they only have one entrance open.

 

The people in the line are not happy and neither am I. Still, I’m relieved it wasn’t sold out and I didn’t drive 600 km to Augsburg for nothing. And there should be a good atmosphere. Still, I do learn that Germans are not very good at queuing.

 

Although most people waited a long time to get in, and then again to get food and drinks from the one concession stand that is open, they are very quiet in the stand. Even close chances get few cheers. Meanwhile, you hear people everywhere talking to each other. As far as I could see, both teams had a few half chances in between the 20th and 30th minute — I missed the first 20. It’s still 0-0.

 

In the 35^th minute I see the first real chance; a cross from the left and an FC Augsburg player is totally free at 5 meters from the goal and tips the ball in. I cannot believe it isn’t offside: 0-1.

 

A few minutes later FC Augsburg has another big chance, with an easy attack over right, but this time the goalie saves the shot from close range. Five minutes later an almost identical attack ,but this time the goalie is already in front of the striker as he tries to tip the cross in. 

 

Just before half-time FC Augsburg hits the crossbar from a free kick just outside of the box. Although Schwaben have had several counters in the first half, the final pass is lacking. Half time score 0-1.

 

In the second half FC Augsburg starts with a whole new team, while Schwaben does not. After seven minutes a rebound to a corner is saved by the Schwaben goalie, but falls for an Augsburg striker, who stands 2 meters from the goal line but also 2 meters next to the goal, and he shoots it across the goal.

 

Given the massive difference in divisions, the difference in quality is not clear enough. Not only does Schwaben get some counters, FC Augsburg is not very impressive in terms of first contact, positioning, or passing. To be fair, the Schwaben goalie also makes some saves. In the 63^rd minute, however, he has no chance when a good corner kick is headed in from 10 meters: 0-2.

 

Less than ten minutes later FC Augsburg scores the 0-3. Eventually, it will end in 0-5, as the Bayerligist totally falls apart. Still, although this was just the first friendly of FC Augsburg, and the result was nice, a lot needs to be done before this team is ready for the new Bundesliga season.

 

It is difficult to read too much into this game with regard to TSV Schwaben Augsburg, which usually doesn’t play in this stadium. Moreover, the vast majority (90%?) of the circa 4,000 people that were in the stadium this evening were FC Augsburg fans. This notwithstanding, it was a nice experience.