RCD Espanyol — UD Almería (04-06-2023)

I take a taxi from the city to the stadium, which is on the outskirts of the city of Barcelona. RCD Espanyol de Barcelona is the second team of the city, operating completely in the shadows of the juggernaut that is FC Barcelona. In almost all ways, it is the complete opposite of “Barca”: it is associated with a pro-Spanish position yet it is also a really local club. Whereas FC Barcelona is a global brand, with far more fans outside of the city than inside of it, Espanyol is second in the city and irrelevant outside of it.

The RCDE Stadion is a new “arena” attached to a mall. It is also known as the Estadi Cornellà-El Prat. It was opened in 2009 and has a capacity of 40,000. After circling almost the whole stadium, I finally find the ticket office and buy a ticket for €32.50, which is behind the goal. Moreover, it is next to the ticket office, so I don’t have to walk all the way back.

This is the last game of the season in the Primera Division (or La Liga) for Espanyol, which were relegated last week. They are playing UD Almeria, who are still fighting against relegation. I enter the stadium a few minutes before kick-off, which is at 9 PM, and the stadium is very empty, perhaps one-third full, including some 1,000 away supporters, who are in various sections throughout the stadium – I assume most live in or near Barcelona, as Almeria is 800 km to the south. The official attendance was 14,231, the lowest attendance of the season.

The home fans look mostly lower middle class and working class, of all ages, almost exclusively white, with quite a lot of women (ca. 20 percent). Still, also a lot of angry taxi drivers (types) and, overall, the place has a pretty right-wing vibe (living up to its reputation).

Before the game starts, the home fans take out whistles and make a stomach-turning noise. There are also banners against “corruption” and a broader conspiracy against Espanyol, and undoubtedly in favor of Barca, which is to explain the “unfair” relegation. The atmosphere is rebellious, to say the least. Most remarkable, however, is that Espanyol kicks off by playing the ball back to the goalie, who holds on to the ball as all players turn their back to the game and remain standing still for at least a minute as the Almeria players just stand there waiting for Espanyol to finally start the game. I have never seen anything like this!

In the 11th minute the guests have their first good attack when a cross is met with a strong header: 0-1. This enrages the home fans even more. But, two minutes later, in the first Espanyol attack after the goal, a striker gets a bounced ball about 7 meters outside of the goal, on the side, and beautifully semi-volleys it hard and high in the goal: 1-1.

In the meantime, the ultras have all moved to the top of their stand, leaving it empty for some 5 minutes. After that, they come back to the stand and throw tennis and beach balls on the pitch, so that the game is interrupted again.

I cannot really hear, or understand, what the fans are shouting, but it clearly is breaking the rules, as a message to refrain from homophobic and racist chanting comes up at the big screens. Given that they would come back in the second half too, I doubt the fans care.

In the meantime, the hosts have several good to decent chances although it is hard to focus on the game with all the noise and protest around me. In the first time of injury time, the guests have a very good counter, with several short passes in the box, but the final shot is headed away by a defender. The direct Espanyol counter again misses the crucial final pass. The last minute of extra time sees an Almeria free kick that is headed just wide. Half time score: 1-1.

At half time the club and fans celebrate various Espanyol youth teams that became champions in their division this season, two boys and one girls team. It is really nice to see how the ultras genuinely celebrate them.

I also buy the saddest hot dog (with water) for €7.30. At first, they give it to me with nothing on it. When I ask, they provide the advertised condiments: ketchup, mustard, and grilled onions. It is supposed to be spicy, but it is mostly mediocre. Then again, the offer is incredibly poor for such a new and big stadium: two stands selling exactly the same limited offer of mediocre sandwiches.

In the 49th minute, a rebound is picked up in the box and finished with a low hard shot: 2-1. After taking the lead, Espanyol is better but it is Almeria that scores a beautiful equalizer in the 58th minute: a clever through ball is lifted over the sliding goalie: 2-2.

After a long Espanyol attack, a hard shot in the far corner from almost outside of the box goes in. The guests complain that another ball was on the pitch at the same time, but that ball was far away from where the play was and had no impact on the play, so the goal is allowed: 3-2.

I leave some 10 minutes before the end to make sure that I find a taxi back to town. Turns out, Almeria equalized a few minutes from the end through a penalty. I can only imagine how loud the whistles were. I neither like modern stadiums nor right-wing clubs and fans but I must admit that this was a unique experience. Hardcore fans who are truly committed to the club instead of uninterested businessmen and rich Asian tourists. And a modern but nice stadium, which reminded me a bit of Borussia Park. Next time you make it to Barcelona, ignore Barca and go to Espanyol. 