After an enjoyable game in a northern suburb of
Paris, the evening before, my brother and I have made our way to Ulm in the
south of Germany, for a game in the Regionalliga-Südwest
(Fourth Division-Southwest). The SSV Ulm was founded in 1846 (!) as an athletic
association (Turnerbund Ulm) and the football club became independent in 1926.
SSV Ulm 1846 played one season in the top flight, the Bundesliga (1999-2000),
before relegating twice in a row, facing bankruptcy, being set back to the
fifth tier, getting back to the fourth tier, going bankrupt again in 2011, etc.
This is the first season back in the Regionalliga and the team is in the
lower half of the table. They play FSV Frankfurt, which is near the bottom, so
there must be hope. After meeting up with my friend MT, who lives a few hours
away, we buy tickets for the non-covered, standing-only parts of the stadium (€9).
The Donaustadion was built in 1925 and has last
been renovated in 1999. It is a classic German sports stadium, which an
annoying athletics track around the pitch. It can hold 19,500, but I doubt
there have been more than 10,000 at the same game in over a decade. Today the
official attendance is 1,570 spectators, of which some one hundred have made
the roughly 300 km (190 miles) trip from Frankfurt am Main.
Most of the home fans are (white) working class,
various ages, predominantly male, but with quite a number of women. On the more
expensive Main Stand there is a bit better mix of class and gender, though
there the crown is still exclusively white and mostly older.
The first 20 minutes are pretty slow and create few
if any real chances. The atmosphere in the stadium is good, however. Fans are
singing and have brought various banners and flags. At the beginning of the
game some of the home fans display two banners, which say: “We can also be
different” and “But not today.” Not sure whether it is a protest or sarcasm.
The first half is not very exciting. In the 24th
minute SSV Ulm gets a corner, but the header goes over the goal. And in the 44th
minute the hosts shoot from 18 meters, but the shot goes just wide. 0-0 is the
half time score.
The second half picks up where the first half left
off and very little of note happens, except for a header by Ulm, which goes
just wide, and a shot by Frankfurt, which also goes just wide. In the 73rd
minute, somewhat against the game, the visitors score after a good attack and a
header from just 2 meters: 0-1. Eight minutes later Ulm strikes back, after a
long attack and a rebound gets deflected: 1-1.
Out of nowhere we have a game. In the 85th
minute Ulm has a free header, but it goes over. Two minutes later, by surprise,
a Frankfurt player gets the ball in the box, shoots hard and low from 14
meters, and the ball goes through all kind of people into the goal: 1-2. Almost
the next minute Ulm gets a corner-kick, the weak header falls on the ground, and
another player kicks it in from 2 meters: 2-2. The celebrating home fans gets a
last shock in the last minute, when a free kick of the visitors ends in the
side net, but the final score remains 2-2.
SSV Ulm 1846 is a club that has fallen on hard
times, but it is grounded in this small town in the middle of nowhere, and
while it lays in the fourth division of German football, it still has a better
atmosphere and attendance than most clubs in the second division of other
countries. Definitely worth a trip!
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