My last day in Prague I go to see the club that
will forever be linked to probably the most legendary Czech player in history:
Antonín Panenka of the famous Panenka penalty. It is also a club with one of
the most remarkable logos, a kangaroo, the legacy of an Australian tour in
1927. Bohemians Praha 1905 is the 15th (!) name of the club. The
latest renaming was a consequence of a split with FK Bohemians Praha in 2005,
which led to an enormous legal mess – not uncommon in post-communist Europe. On
the upside, it provided me with the opportunity for a new groundhop, as I had
already seen FK Bohemians Praha in the 1990s.
I arrive at the legendary Ďolíček Stadium
about half an hour before kick-off. The old stadium, opened in 1932, is
situated in the Vršovice district – formerly working class and now increasingly
hipster – and has its own tram stop (Bohemians). It is a scorching day in early
September and the area around the stadium is buzzing. I get a ticket for the
main stand (covered so I won’t melt in the sun) for CZK 230 (ca. $9).
Inside the
stadium is a small courtyard that is packed with people who are lining up at
the many drink and eat stands. The club has put a sprinkler in the middle to
provide some much needed cooling for the fans, which is much appreciated.
The Ďolíček Stadium is old and small ground (capacity
just 5,000), but it is full of atmosphere and history. It even has a small club
museum and a wall of pictures of club heroes. Consequently, there is strong
opposition among fans to the plans of the management to leave the ground and
move to a new stadium further outside of the area.
The fans are a combination of mostly older, working
class locals and hipsters and punks as well as some tourists. The stadium has
only one main stand, which is almost sold out. The fanatic home fans stand
behind the goal on a small stand.
The official attendance is 4,329, which seems a
couple hundred too high, but the stadium is close to capacity. Only the
opposite “stand” of the main stand is fairly empty, except for some 100 away
fans, who made the roughly 200 km trip from Brno, the second biggest city in
the country. Most of the fans are males, shirtless, and increasingly drunk.
Bohemians have their first shot at goal in the
second minute; it goes well over. The next minute Brno has a good attack, which
is saved by the goalie. The game flows pretty well, with both teams creating
some half decent chances, forcing some decent saves by the goalies.
Overall the game is ok, not remarkable, but much
better than the game I watched the evening before. The Brno goalie is quite
poor on corners, often missing the ball. It is not punished though.
In the 23rd minute Bohemians have a
great through ball but the goalie saves. The next minute Brno has a good
counter but the final ball is weak. In the 25th minute there is a much
deserved and needed water break – it must be some 30 C – and the next
uncoordinated attack leads to a rebound from 18 meters, which is hidden from
the goalie, and ends up in the low corner: 1-0!
In the 32nd minute the hosts have a
corner, the header is saved by the goalie, but Bohemians score from a rebound
from just 2 meters: 2-0. The crowd goes wild. Oddly enough, it doesn’t change
the way Brno plays, devoid of any urgency, as if it is still 0-0.
In the first, and only minute of extra time in the
first half Bohemians have a break, the Brno goalie comes out and slides the
ball away, far from his goal. The ball end up with a defender, who shoots from
roughly 40 meters, over the defenders and goalie, into the goal: 3-0! Half
time.
Early in the second half the hosts have another
good attack, but the ball is volleyed over the goal from 5 meter. Most attacks
are pretty accidental. Brno continues to put in a pathetic performance, while
Bohemians are lowering their pace in the scorching heat.
The game remain quite entertaining, with Brno at
times creating some half chances, and Bohemians having more dangerous counter
attacks, but it is clear to everyone that the winner is determined and nothing
will fundamentally change. The final score is 3-0 and everyone leaves happily,
looking for shade and refreshments.
Bohemians Praha 1905 is only the third team of the
city, behind powerhouses Sparta and Slavia, but should be on the list of any
groundhopper. While the crowd is getting a bit too hipster – reminded me a bit
of St. Pauli – do go see them asap, before they leave Ďolíček and
move to some soulless new stadium in a soulless suburb of Prague.
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