Lustenau is a very
small Austrian town of just 20,000 people on the border with Switzerland. The
local team, SC Austria Lustenau, plays in the Erste Liga (First League), which really is Austria’s second
division.
Situated in the
center of the small town, the Reichshofstadion
is an old athletic stadium with randomly built extensions. It is set in a beautiful
mountain scenery. On one side, on what used to be the track, there is almost a
market of beer and snack tents behind the stand. They serve an amazing range of
snacks and everyone is eating.
I pay 14 euro for a
ticket on the Haupttribune (main
stand), which is covered and an all-seater. The stand is pretty full, a mix of the
town’s population (including families), while the stand behind the goal is
mostly younger ‘ultras’ (banners, drums and singing).
Overall, the roughly
2,000 (guestimate) fans all sit or stand on those two stands. Along one long
side is no stand, but some people simply stand there, while there is almost no
one sitting on the uncovered bleachers behind the other goal. I see no away
fans – then again, St. Pölten is almost 600 km (ca. 385 miles) away from
Lustenau.
It is quite telling that
you cannot even see the pitch from the VIP ‘stand’. Still, they can exclusively
eat grilled chicken. They follow the game, if at all, on the tv screen inside.
The game is very
poor: slow pace, poor passing and touch, and very few chances. After 20 min the
visitors take me by surprise and score: 0-1. Ten minutes later there is a series
of blocked Lustenau shots and a corner with a shot that goes just wide.
In the 39th
minute a header of the visitors is saved on the goal line by the Lustenau
goalkeeper. Half time score: 0-1. I’m off to sample the broad variety of
snacks, from candied peanuts to Currywurst,
from some kind of Spaetzle to
schnitzel, and from candy to Pommes
(fries). My tip: Zack Zack with onion sauce (spiced pork cutlet).
The second half is
mostly defined by the red card for a Lustenau player in the 57th
minute. One goal behind and one man down, the game is clearly over,
particularly given that Lustenau was already the weaker team. I focus
increasingly at the big screen, which is constantly showing commercials
(something I have never seen before in a stadium).
In the 76th
minute the game is finally decided when the visitors score their second goal of
the night. This is also the final score of the game.
Even though they
lost 0-2 the atmosphere is good, as another team also lost, which meant that
Lustenau wouldn’t relegate. To celebrate there was thirty minutes of free beer
for the fane (soda for the children).
Overall, Austria Lustenau
was an truly joyful experience. Sure, the football was pretty terrible, but the
atmosphere was so authentic and homey. Football for the community, not for big
business.
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