I am in Chile for work and have a long weekend to see games. The idea was to go to see Santiago Wanderers, who somewhat confusingly play in Valparaiso (rather than Santiago), but the stadium and time were changed, so I chose to go to instead see Club Deportivo Universidad Católica, one of the three big teams of Santiago – the other ones being Colo Colo and Club Universidad de Chile. Turns out, they are updating their stadium, so they played their game in the stadium of O’Higgins in Rancagua, about an hour south of Santiago. But that wasn’t the only complication. Because of recent violence in and around the stadiums, tickets for home games of the three big teams are only sold to socios of the home team (and require passport information). Because of connections of one of the people who went with me, we could get tickets.
After a heavy lunch in the center of Rancagua, a small and not very attractive mining town, we made it to the Estadio El Teniente, as said, the home ground of O’Higgins, which is also plays in the Campeonato Nacional, the top-tier of Chilean football. The stadium dates back to 1947, but was demolished in 2013 and rebuilt in 2014.
The new stadium has a modern design, despite athletics track, and holds 14,087 people. What makes it stand out, however, is the spectacular vista of the Andes mountains around most sides.
When we arrive at the stadium, our tickets are scanned and our passports are checked – my US driver license creates some confusion but we get in anyway. Unsurprisingly, given that the game is played an hour away from the real “home” of Católica, there are not so many people. The official count is some 2,400 supporters, none from the visitors, but the loudest ones are here, behind one goal, and they would sing for the whole game (although, it seems, mostly the same 1-2 songs).
We arrive 15 min late and it is already 1-0 – we find out online, as there is no scoreboard. As we sit down, Católica is about to get a penalty, but after several minutes the VAR overrules that decision. Less than ten minutes later, after a great pass through from the own half, the Ñublense goalie comes out, hesitates, and the striker puts it low in far corner from outside of the box: 2-0.
Católica, which plays in gorgeous pink jerseys, is much better but also very sloppy up front and in the back, which means that there are some chances on both sides. Overall though, the pace of the game is very low and the control of the ball is often lacking, despite the artificial pitch. Half time score: 2-0. All is good.
The second half continues where the first one left of: slow pace, poor control and passing, and few really clear chances. Católica remains the better team but seems uninterested in scoring a third. In the 65th minute, the assistant coach of Ñublense is sent off for commenting something from inside the dug-out. The most exciting thing related to the game – I mainly spent time admitting the vistas.
Although the game remains pedestrian, out of nowhere, some 25 minutes into the second half, a Ñublense player hits the ball with an inside foot volley from 10 meters high in the far corner: 2-1. An absolute beauty and from the response of the player something he doesn’t even do in practice. Roughly ten minutes later, after a corner, a cross from the left side is headed in from the back: 2-2. The fans around us cannot believe what is happening. Only now Católica tries to create some pressure, but the away goalie makes some good saves and the chances aren’t very good anyway. Final score: 2-2.
Although the game was quite pedestrian for almost 80 minutes, in which it seemed Católica were getting a very easy win, the “home” team threw away a certain win, which could hurt them in the end (for qualifying for the Copa Libertadores). Because of the crazy last 20 minutes, it was an exciting game after all.
More than the game though, the Estadio El Teniente is an absolute must see for groundhoppers. In fact, I loved the stadium and the views so much that I want to return to see an O’Higgins game, which will also see a better atmosphere.
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